Joanna Blythman, Sunday Herald
I've found the perfect place to take Dr Atkins out to dinner. The Dr Atkins, that is, of diet fame. I feel that he could do with a sympathetic hearing.
On Atkins' diet proper, you renounce carbohydrate and eat protein and more protein, with limitless amounts of non-starchy vegetables like green beans or salads and when you've got your weight down, you gradually reintroduce fruits and wholegrains as part of your ongoing eating plan.
Dr Atkins would find something to sink his teeth into at Livingstons, a meaty establishment if ever there was one, and a calorie-counter's nightmare. It does have a more than token vegetarian menu, sporting the usual veggie clichés; risotto, filo basket things, stir fry veg, etcetera. But you just need to look around the plates, crowned with huge tottering towers of animal protein, to see where the kitchen's allegiances lie.
Black pudding (a nutritionist's nightmare) seems to be in vogue in restaurants at the minute and here it was layered up with fried (shock horror) apple, crisp layers of pastry and fried leeks. Dr A would doubtless discard the pastry but I didn't, and in truth, although the dish was on the dry side, a dressing of reduced balsamic vinegar and a herby oil drizzle (more fat) with caramelised shallots cut the richness rather well.